![]() That’s why you keep seeing the Milwaukee Packout, DeWalt ToughSystem, and Festool Systainer boxes appear more than once. If you need something to flex with the job, then we tend to value tool box “systems” over one-off designs. If you can slam a box down in your truck bed for fear of breaking it, you’re not doing yourself any favors. For that reason, you don’t see any “Amazon-special” recommendations-we don’t care how many people give them top user ratings. One thing we don’t like: cheap boxes that break easily. Once we’re done, we feel we have a list you can rely on and trust. We also run these by professionals in various fields to see what they think and get their input. It’s the sum of the whole-along with the desired application-that ultimately guides our decision. ![]() We judge tool boxes on a variety of factors. Having well-laid-out tool kits can really speed up your workflow. I don’t really want to have to stop and load out every time I need to fix a leaky faucet or change out a lighting fixture.įor this reason, I tend to also have duplicate key tools for each application so I don’t need to hunt down and swap out screwdrivers, tapes, markers, and utility knives each time I go from one task to another. I tend to have separate kits for each of these duties so I can just grab my box and go. ![]() In my world, I may need to work on plumbing, electrical, automotive, or something like tiling. For general storage, however, you really want to organize by task and application. You can’t beat custom foam inserts that help you keep track of your tools. With tool chests, our recommendations come down to spray adhesive and even foam inserts like those made by Kaizen Inserts. I think that's what I've done sometimes in the past.You can choose from a myriad of ways to organize your toolbox. A potentially easier approach might be to import an all black still image and choosing 601/709 file to pixel mapping. I even vaguely remember using one, but it escapes me at this time. I hope I didn't get a little too arcane for what should be a simple ?. ![]() If you need black set at 0, 0, 0, you could apply a CC effect to the black slate created w/ the Title Tool and just lower the Setup till the slate becomes zero black. But if you're delivering for the web, creating still images, or like to work 0 to 255 until the last possible moment (how I tend to roll) then this behavior is annoying. For people working in a network/broadcast environment, this is fine as black is 16, levels between 1 and 15 are illegal and 0 is strictly disallowed. I find it to be one of many idiosyncrasies in MC that can be a little frustrating, but I deal w/ b/c the program is very powerful. It seems that the title tool always remaps 0 to 16. Even if you use the eyedropper to choose something that is 0, 0, 0, when you render the title, the resulting source media will always be a black slate where black is 16, 16, 16. ![]() Video black is 16 and RGB black is 0 (on an eight bit scale). There is a potential issue with this method that has to with what black actually is. the black in the timecode indicator or audio meters.Ĭhoose close and name the title something appropriate for being a black slug. I then select color picker (eyedropper) and choose an area of the screen that I know is true black. (There might be a better way to do this.) I really make sure it's all the way across by dragging the little box handles. Not sure if my way is the optimal way, but it seems to work okay.Ĭlick on the rectangle tool and stretch it all the way across the viewing area. I'll tell you how I do what Randy suggested. ![]()
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